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WHITE PASS & YUKON ADVENTURE - story & photos by Don Evans
It was long overdue for sure—after living on the West Coast for all of my years, I had never yet seen or ridden the White Pass & Yukon Railroad. All that was about to change, however, as I had my ticket on West Coast Rail Tours White Pass & Yukon Route Steam Spectacular tour. I was ready to go!
Friday, July 11 Off to the airport, ticket pouch in hand, where I am met (as are all our tour guests) by WCR Tours Manager Bill Johnston. He directs me to the Air North check in where all proceeds smoothly. I find my seat and we are off on schedule aboard our B 737-200 aircraft, one of two in the fleet. We arrive at Whitehorse, Yukon on time and collect our bags.
Outside, our guides Dave and Arlone Emmington, along with Lisa Flatla, get our charter coach organized and we climb aboard to start our adventure. We are a group of 30 in total, many friends and members are along plus a great contingent of guests from many parts of the world, the farthest afield being a couple from Northern Ireland.
We head out of the airport, where a rather large weathervane stands at the entrance—a Canadian Pacific Airlines DC-3 that rotates in the wind! Our first stop is at Miles Canyon, where we are introduced to the Yukon River as it flows through a narrow rock lined gorge. There is great walking and a suspension bridge over the gorge, a nice first stop and place to relax and stretch our legs. Back aboard the coach, we head for Whitehorse, past the retired steamboat Klondike (below), and have a short tour around town before arriving at the Gold Rush Inn where we will over night.
Most of us then head to the Klondike Salmon and Rib House, where we enjoy a terrific (and it was highly recommended) dinner. After dinner, the Frantic Follies show provides great entertainment - and after dinner and the show I really feel like I am now in the Yukon.
Saturday, July 12 A free morning in Whitehorse, and I know my targets for this portion of time. I start with a walk around town, then head along the Riverfront walkway and enjoy the Yukon River, ending up at the Parks Canada Klondike historic site to tour the retired steamboat. The tour of the steamboat is fascinating and well conducted by my tour guide Jen (I am the only guest for this first 0900 tour!)
The restoration of the ship is first rate, and the interpretation very good. You can only tour with a guide, this keeps tours on course and provides a good deal of information. Being very naive about the history here, I am fascinated to learn that this is the second “Klondike”, built right here in Whitehorse in 1937, and serving the river to Dawson City. Whitehorse was the transfer point from rail to steamboat for the short season when ice was not on the river.
Vintage video of the steamboat tackling the current and the ice was amazing—a trip downstream to Dawson could take as little as a day, while the return journey could take as much as 4 days!
Having enjoyed the steamboat tour, I now needed to warm up (it was a cool morning) so I headed to a nearby Starbucks (no, not much heritage here!) and then walked back to the Rotary Peace Park near the boat to take a ride on the Whitehorse Waterfront Trolley. The sign said that operating hours were 1100—1700 daily, with departure on the hour. When the trolley hadn't
shown up at 1115 I was ready to give up, but then it suddenly appeared around the curve.
I boarded the single truck car #531 (Lisbon, Portugal heritage, built 1925) and we were off for a 2.5 mile ride on the former WP & Y narrow gauge tracks. The trolley is powered by a generator car which tags along and generates the electricity to power the car. The ride was quite fun and ends up near the shopping centre at the north end of town, I then returned to the WP & Y depot at town centre (original building, built 1900) where I got off and walked back to the hotel. It was time to board the bus and continue our adventure.
We were on our way west at 1330, with all present and accounted for. Dave did a good job of hosting, and we made some scenic stops at Emerald lake and Carcross desert, before arriving at historic Carcross, YT. Here we saw our first White Pass & Yukon station (built 1910) and train—the depot is the centre of this small community on the east end of Lake Bennett. Parked on the tracks was the Carcross train (which operates 6 days a week, not Saturdays) headed by GE shovel nose unit #97 (I would get to know her well in a couple of days!), a flatcar, and three coaches. After photographs, we headed to the ice cream store which was in the oldest continuing operated general store in the Yukon!
Departing Carcross, we headed south and down the spectacular White Pass, across the Yukon / BC border and then the BC / Alaska border and into Skagway. We disembarked at the Westmark Hotel, and settled in to our rooms, The evening was free, so there was time to explore the Skagway waterfront, see the W P & Y Rotary snow plow #1 which was on display, and then go for a nice dinner. We met up with Dave and Arlone, Lisa, guests Ernie & Lynne Ledgerwood, and were joined by long time WCRA member and now 7 year WP & Y employee Phil Bruehler. It was great to see Phil again—this writer had tour guided some BC Rail System Tours with Phil back in the early 1990's—there was lots of catching up to do over seafood on the dock!
Sunday, July 13 Up early and a free morning to explore Skagway. I had several targets in mind for the morning, started with the docks to see the cruise ships arrive. There were two in this morning—the Seven Seas Mariner and the Carnival Spirit. Now I decided to head up to the railroad shops and see just how WP & Y handles the cruise ship business.
The shops were an easy walk, about 15 blocks uptown and you are there. There was lots going on as two long trains were being made up for morning departures (they repeat in the afternoon) to the summit. The trains each had a three unit set of motive power, with GE's bracketing and MLW units on the head end and then 12 cars and 15 cars respectively. I watched them back off towards the docks, then discovered a roadway signed to the Gold Rush cemetery, which went right through the shops area and further to the north. The crews were steaming up #69 for our afternoon run, and another shorter consist positioned onto the main line. Should be good action this morning.
I reached the Gold Rush Cemetery and found a delightful place. Located in the woods were many old gravestones dating to 1898 and the gold rush, all maintained as a park. It was immediately alongside the WP & Y mainline, a perfect photo spot. By now I had determined that the train on the main was the train to Carcross, and it would obviously be first out ahead of the cruise ship trains to White Pass Summit. Sure enough, buses were now alongside in the distance, trans-loading passengers for this “most of a day” ride.
Shortly, two blasts of the air horn were heard, the headlight came on, and up she came—GE 84 ton locomotive #96 in fresh paint followed by a consist of six coaches .(photo, back cover) She roared by at a good clip—I can hardly wait for our rides! I walk back to the shops and catch the two “Summit” trains heading up the line, first one headed by GE #94 / MLW #101 / GE #99 sounded great as she paraded 12 cars up the hill, next by was the other train lead by GE #100 / MLW 104 / GE 99 and 15 cars at full throttle! Great show! Time now to walk back to town and explore the shops, as well as the station and the station gift shop.
Train time approaches, and we head down to Long Siding (near the cruise ship dock) to board our steam train for an afternoon adventure. Sitting on the siding is 2-8-0 #69 (Baldwin, 1907) and a five car consist, the maximum she can pull herself up the grades to White Pass summit. Thanks to the fine work of Phil, we are assigned the tail end car #258 Lake Kuane, and we climb aboard. We have lots of room and a great rear platform to enjoy for the duration of the trip. A cruise train arrives and backs past us taking up position on the dock for another summit trip, and we are set to go.
The little 2-8-0 digs in and gets right to work. There is nothing easy about this line out of Skagway, as the grades are continuous to the summit, only variance is the steepness (up to 3.9%!) on each section. Black smoke and incredible stack talk are the order of the day, as she tackles the grades (photo, back cover) and vista after vista unfold for us as passengers. Mile 5.8 is Denver, where a donated caboose now serves as a hiker's cabin, continuing up following the Skagway River to Glacier (mile 14), where we stop for water and to build steam back up.
Then we're at it again with the awesome climb along the rock's edge, through Tunnel Mountain to Inspiration Point (mile 17) where we get a view all the way back to Skagway. On we climb, past the abandoned cantilever steel bridge at mile 18.6 to White Pass summit, mile 20.4 and 2,865 feet in elevation. We have climbed from sea level to almost 3,000 feet in just 20 rail miles! What a show #69 puts on.
Now we are in a very different world, basically above the tree line with lots of rock, water and scrub trees the rest of the way to Fraser, BC where we will water the engine again and turn back for Skagway. Although we have crossed the Alaska / BC border, this service does not require customs work as all are kept aboard and return to the starting point.
After watering the locomotive, we proceed around a complete loop and are now headed back for Skagway. (The WP & Y also has loops at Skagway shops and Bennett, BC, and a wye at Carcross YT for turning trains and locomotives). The return trip scenery is a second treat—one cannot take it all in on just one pass by. However, this time #69 gets it easier and it is the brakes that keep us under control most of the return, no water or steam up stops required! We arrive back at Skagway at 1550 after a fantastic steam trip.
A particular point of interest is the Trail of 98 marker along the way, where one can clearly see the narrow trail that the gold seekers climbed during the gold rush days of 1898—99, before the railway came to the aid. Starting out from San Francisco, the gold seekers came by ship to Skagway, then had to set out on foot climbing this narrow trail to the summit (and the Canadian border). The border required them to carry one ton of supplies in order to ensure they could sustain for a year in the gold fields, taking them several trips up and down the pass before they could move on. This history—brief as it was—is clearly played out from the windows of the train today. How they did it is beyond apprehension, but their route was up the pass, along the White Pass or Chilkoot trails to Lake Bennett where they built rafts and continued by water (when the lake wasn't frozen) to the Yukon River system and on to the gold fields. By 1900, they could take a train to Whitehorse and a steamboat on to Dawson City!
Monday, July 14 Today it is our turn to ride the train to Carcross and enjoy the entire length of the track in service. We check out of our hotel and motorcoach up to the railroad shops, where our train awaits us. (below, fresh paint on MLW #103)
The consist is GE locomotive #97, a box car (for our luggage) and four coaches. Thanks to the fine work of Phil (who is on duty today as lead tour guide), the WCRT group is assigned the rear coach 338 Lake McQuestin. Tagging along behind us as far as Bennett is a flat car.
We await the organization of three cruise ship trains for this morning ( a busy day), and once they have headed off for the docks, we back onto the mainline and prepare to depart. Our crew is engineer Brian, conductor David, brakeman Paul and guides Phil and helper. We are clear to depart at 0750 and head off up the grade. The little GE gets a good workout climbing to White Pass, but does the job handily—#97 has served the line since 1963.
At Fraser, BC we stop and Canada Border Services does an efficient sweep of the train and its passengers. We are just about to depart for Bennett when your editor is summoned over the PA system to report to Customs with my belongings. What is Phil up to now? Climbing off the coach, with passengers staring, I am met by the conductor and brakeman and escorted alongside the entire train to the cab of #97, where I join Brian for the trip to Bennett!
The cab is like a small F unit to me, similar vintage, and we roll along through the incredible scenery of mountains, lakes, rivers and colour. There are few locations to sound the horn, save one major crossing of the Klondike highway, protected only by cross bucks. This is cause for great caution and much sound—adding a little drama to the otherwise calm journey. We meet a work train on a siding shortly after; there is a huge tie replacement program in evidence on this stretch of line. We arrive Bennett, BC at 1020—a little early due our shorter than usual stop at Fraser, and a spectacular site of lake and mountains as we roll to a stop at the depot. I bid goodbye and thank Brian, and climb down to rejoin the group for lunch.
Hot lunch is served as it has been for years—family style in the depot dining room. It is hearty and good, then we have ample free time to explore the area as we will not leave until the westbound train arrives (and its passengers have their turn for lunch). Parks Canada has an interpretive centre here on the Chilkoot Trail, and the old log church and other buildings are still here from 1899. Walking a section of the trail is also possible, and yields a spectacular vista of the lake and mountains on this crystal clear day. Returning to the station, we watch as the southbound appears up the lake and pulls to the station with GE #96 and six coaches (the train we saw leave Skagway yesterday).
It adds the flat car we dropped to its consist and we ready to depart. Underway at 1215, we spend the remainder of the ride along the shores of Lake Bennett, crossing into the Yukon along the way, and pull into Carcross at 1400 Alaska time (1500 BC time) We unload the boxcar and put our bags into the waiting motor coach, have time to visit the general store, then are off on our way to Whitehorse and our flight home on Air Canada.
This has been a spectacular four days, and is recommended to anyone to take. The tour offers a nice blend of organized and free time for everyone's individual tastes, and assembles the very best that the unique White Pass & Yukon Railroad has to offer. The scenery is spectacular from start to finish with never a dull moment. Our guides did a superb job and looked after us well. Consider it for 2009 when it is sure to repeat.
White Pass & Yukon Route Sets Historic New Daily Ridership Record! July 24, 2008
SKAGWAY, AK - The White Pass & Yukon Route Railroad (WP&YR) proudly announced that it carried 7,009 passengers on Wednesday July 23, 2008 setting a new daily ridership record. Gary C. Danielson, President of the WP&YR enthusiastically commented, "This historic milestone - breaking the 7,000 passengers in one day threshold - is truly symbolic for us. This milestone is testament to our brand, our people and our industry partners. This milestone celebrates our investment in infrastructure, service and systems." "It was just a week ago that we dared think about a 7,000 passenger day. Yesterday's feat was accomplished with all trains being on time and without any sense that it was going to be a record day. Maybe it was the horrible weather, but it didn't feel like a record day until it was all over. I'm very proud of our people and this achievement. To grow the business to this level is very rewarding for all of us here at White Pass", Gary added. (forwarded by J.D.)
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